Written by Stucco Champions — Southern California’s Authority on Exterior Plastering.

Fixing Rust Stains and Corroded Wire Lath

Seeing an orange or brown streak running down your freshly patched stucco is a homeowner’s nightmare. In Southern California, where coastal salt air accelerates corrosion, rust stains are more than just an eyesore—they are a diagnostic symptom.

Rust means metal is oxidizing. The critical question is: Which metal? Is it a surface nail head, or is it the structural wire lath dissolving inside your wall? Before you paint over a stain, you must identify the source, or the rust will bleed back through your new paint within months.

1. Diagnosis: Surface Rust vs. Rust Jacking

Not all stains are created equal. Before attempting a repair, categorize the issue:

• Surface Rust (Minor): Usually caused by an external ferrous metal touching the wall—a rusty light fixture, an iron railing bolt, or a non-galvanized nail head close to the surface. This is cosmetic.
• Rust Jacking (Major): If the stain is weeping from a crack, or if the stucco is bulging, the internal wire lath is corroding. As steel rusts, it expands to 4x its original volume. This expansion (jacking) pushes the stucco off the wall. This is a structural failure.

2. The Rust Crisis: When the Skeleton Fails ("Rust Jacking")

In coastal Southern California, the #1 cause of stucco delamination is Corroded Lath.
When moisture penetrates the stucco and reaches the galvanized wire mesh, it begins to oxidize. As steel turns to iron oxide (rust), it expands to over 4 times its original volume. This massive internal pressure pushes the stucco outward, causing it to bulge and crack. We call this "Rust Jacking."

Why You Cannot Patch Over Rust

A common handyman mistake is to simply chip off the loose stucco, apply a bonding agent over the rusty wire, and patch it. This guarantees failure.
Rust is "infectious." If you leave active oxidation inside the wall, it will continue to eat the metal even under the new patch. Within months, brown stains will bleed through your new paint, and the patch will pop off.

The "Chasing" Protocol

To fix this correctly, we must perform a radical excision:

1. The Chase: We start at the visible damage and cut the stucco back. We continue removing stucco until we hit clean, shiny galvanized wire. Sometimes a 6-inch crack reveals 4 feet of rotted wire. We do not stop until the metal is sound.
2. The Treatment: Before installing new mesh, we treat the cut edges of the existing wire with a Rust Inhibitor (like Zinc-Rich Cold Galvanizing spray) to stop the chemical reaction.
3. The Lap: We install new lath that overlaps the clean existing wire by a minimum of 2 inches. We use tie-wire to mechanically lock the new skeleton to the old one, ensuring structural continuity.

3. The "Cover-Up" Mistake

The most common error we see is homeowners applying primer directly over active rust.
Why this fails: Rust is chemically active. Unless you neutralize the oxidation or remove the source, it will eat through standard primers and paints. You cannot seal rust in; you must treat it.

4. The "Bleed-Through" Blocker: Priming

Even after treating the metal, rust residue can stain new paint. You must use a specific type of primer.

5. Prevention: Galvanization Matters

Why did it rust in the first place? Usually, it’s because someone used the wrong hardware.
In Southern California, all lath and accessories (nails, corner beads, weep screeds) must be Hot-Dipped Galvanized. If a contractor used "Electro-Galvanized" (a thinner coating) or standard steel in a coastal zone, rust is inevitable.

Conclusion: Treat the Source

Rust is like a cavity in a tooth; ignoring it makes it worse. If you catch it early, a simple treatment and patch will work. If you let it spread, you may face a full wall resurfacing. Treat the metal, prime the patch, and use high-quality acrylic paint to seal the envelope.