Written by Stucco Champions — Southern California’s Authority on Exterior Plastering.
Introduction to Stucco Nails: Fastening the Foundation
In the high-speed world of modern construction, pneumatic staples have largely replaced hand-driven nails for stucco lathing. However, there is still a critical place for the humble stucco nail. For small repairs, tight corners, or concrete substrates where a staple gun can't reach or penetrate, knowing which nail to use is the difference between a solid wall and a loose patch.
This guide breaks down the specific metallurgy and geometry required for stucco fasteners, ensuring you choose the right hardware for the right substrate.
1. The Three Must-Haves: Rust, Length, and Head
You cannot grab a box of common framing nails. Stucco is wet cement. It corrodes standard steel instantly.
- Galvanization: Stucco nails must be Hot-Dipped Galvanized or Electro-Galvanized to resist rust. If a nail rusts inside the wall, it expands ("Rust Jacking") and cracks the stucco.
- Head Size: The head must be large enough to trap the wire mesh. A standard finish nail will slip right through the holes in the lath.
- Length: The nail must penetrate the stud by at least 3/4 inch to meet shear strength requirements.
2. Nail Types by Substrate
What you are nailing into dictates the nail you need.
Wood Framing (Roofing Nails)
For attaching wire lath to wood studs.
The Nail: 1-1/2" Galvanized Roofing Nail.
Why: The wide, flat head acts like a washer, holding the wire mesh securely against the paper. It is the most common nail for hand-lathing repairs.
Concrete / Block (Masonry Nails)
For attaching lath to a block wall or foundation.
The Nail: Fluted Masonry Nail (often hardened steel).
Why: These are extremely hard and thick. They don't bend when struck. The flutes (grooves) on the shank grip the concrete for holding power.
The "Stub" Nail (Concrete)
For attaching wire to hard concrete where a long nail would bend.
The Nail: A short, thick hardened nail with a large washer.
Technique: You often need a magnetic punch to hold these, as they are too short to hold with fingers safely.
If you are nailing into a One-Coat Stucco System (which has 1 inch of foam), a standard 1-1/2" roofing nail is too short. It will barely reach the wood. You must upgrade to a 2-1/2" Roofing Nail to penetrate through the foam and bite into the stud.
3. Furring Nails: The Specialty Fastener
There is a specific nail designed just for stucco called a Furring Nail.
It looks like a nail with a cardboard or plastic spacer on the shaft.
The Function: When driven in, the spacer holds the wire mesh 1/4 inch away from the wall. This allows the cement to flow behind the wire (keying), fully embedding the lath. If you use standard roofing nails, you must use "Self-Furring" wire that has crimps built in.
Conclusion: Small Hardware, Big Impact
Using the wrong nail is the most common cause of lath failure. If the nail rusts, the wall stains. If the nail is too short, the wall sags. For small repairs, keeping a box of 1-1/2" hot-dipped roofing nails and a box of concrete stub nails in your kit ensures you are ready for any substrate.
Last week, we shared Stucco Nails: A Comprehensive Guide to Home Depot’s Selection. If you need to buy locally, check this inventory guide.
